Cabo Pulmo

Driving Adventure in Mexico

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Once I was inside I couldn't just leave, so I sat down and a young local boy sorta asked me if I wanted a yellow vase.
I figured at this point, just say "si" to everything was the best way to get along here, although to tell you the truth
I had no idea what I was going to do with a yellow vase.
He came back in no time with a glass of ice water, but I never did see the vase.
I told him he had grass on his backside again, just to be polite, and let him know I could speak the language.
As I put the glass to my lips I remembered the first rule to remember...DON'T DRINK THE WATER!!
So here it was, time to make my first sentence. "Coke porfabore?"
He gave me a big grin and happily came back with a coke, so I sat drinking and watched until I saw a fish sandwich served
which looked as close to healthy-as-possible in the circumstances and ordered one of those by pointing.
It turned out to be a great lunch, as I noticed the dishes being washed in another plastic bucket out back under a tree.
At another plastic table I saw a young Mexican dandy all dressed in black with silver bangles
and 3 stainless automatic hand guns, one slung on each hip and one in a sholder harness.
If I hadn't thought he could be serious, I may have just burst out laughing as it looked so "Hollywood"!
But short as he was I didn't want to get some Banty rooster all worked up for nothing so I ate my meal and headed out.



Now this was not the place.
This big sign posted next to a small concrete block building with a palapa (palm leaf) roof.
was one of the most common sights along the road.
It turns out this is a liquor store, and I am told Tecate is a brand of beer,
although I didn't see anyone drinking anything but Pacifico and on occasion, Corona.




So after lunch I headed up the road to Cabo Pulmo, about 60 miles north of Cabo San Lucas.
I thought I could pick up a road map once I got to Mexico, but couldn't find a place that sold them.
No worries though, I had the hand drawn map Marly emailed me, and it seemed to be working out so far.
It turned out there was only one road anyway, it was kinda like Alaska that way.
Now I had been warned on the internet to watch for cows on the road, and you can see by the photo that
the roads are narrow with no shoulders, but that didn't keep the traffic from clocking along at 120 kilometers.
I don't know how fast that is in real speed, but it was fast enough, and now I know why they cut all their trees down,
so you could see the cows up ahead!
I was getting the hang of this driving without road signs at breakneck speeds watching for cows, which really were all over the roads,
when all of a sudden my head hit the roof, the car went flying and it was all I could do to get it under control.
WHAT THE HECK WAS THAT?!




I don't know but...hey look at that cool tree...whatever it was everything seemed to be ok
so I kept going, gratful I got full Mexican insurance on the car.
Another 20 miles or so WAP! I got hit again. This time as I recoverd the car I noticed in the rear veiw mirror
there was an honest to goodness speed bump accross the road! Heck with the cows, they should have warned me about those!
Now that I knew what I was watching for I saw the third one just in time, this one had a small sign posted right beside it; "Topes".
So now I learned my first real important Mexican word. Topes means "got ya!"




Well now, I came to "the bridge" on my directions, and made the exit without any names or signs,
and found myself on a secondary road where I immediately found a Mexican couple hitch hicking, so I pulled over and picked them up.
It didn't take them long to figure out I couldn't speak a lick of Mexican and they didn't offer to speak any English
so we drove along grinning until I handed her my "map" and did my best to gesture "where are you going?"
She just pointed up the road. Then a few minuets later she showed a curiosity to know where I was going.
I figured this would be a good time to verify I was on the right road.
Knowing they were indigenous I was surprized to get a blank look when I said "Cabo Pulmo"
so I moved my finger on the map from where we were, along the road and down the coast, and immediately she come unglued!
She began speaking even faster than Mexicans usually do, pointing wildly behind us and waving the universal "no" sign.
Despite regular looking to the back seat at the guy, like she wanted confirmation or help, he just sat there quiet.
As I dropped them off at a little village called Santa Cruz, she motioned me to wait as she ran off to get help.
I showed the map to the guy, did the finger drag thing again and pointed at "Cabo Pulmo"
He patted me on the sholder and got out.
As I pulled away she was still waving wildly yelling who knows what, as if I was driving to my death,
Which was very encouraging, and made me now confident I was on the wrong road.

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